help fixing a CPS 1000 - leaking, trigger sticking

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BlueMage
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Post by BlueMage » Wed Jun 01, 2005 3:31 pm

okay, i was at a friend's house today, and i got an old leaky CPS 1000 from him for free. :bm1000: seeing as my current CPS cxollection is a bit.... slim, i wanted to fix this one up, and since all my other repairs hape gone bad (luckily only to an alredy broken xp105 and a broken MD6K) i wanted to get some more help. alrighty, it is leaking out the bottom of the handle, and the trigger sticks sometimes. i think it is due to a messed up trigger valve, and i have tried to fix trigger valves before but they are tricky little buggers and i never got them fixed. if anyone can help i would appreciate it. thanks in advance! :cps1000:
-The Wizard of Water
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SharpObjects
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Post by SharpObjects » Wed Jun 01, 2005 4:14 pm

Whoa, your first sentence is the same exact thing that happened to me, a friend gave me his old CPS1000 for free as well. I don't know if I can help you on the repairs. My 1000 has no range as good as others. only 29ft at 45 degrees. And the rubber at the end of the pump is making more friction than is wanted, pumping is very difficult. I tried some soap but then she shoots soapy water. I could use some help too. Mine leaks around the trigger handle as well, I think the resivour isn't tight on the inner tubing.

~SO
CPS 1000 (Now K-modded into a CPS 10000)
CPS 4100 *in repair*
MI Flash Flood w/Aqua Pak
SC Big Trouble
Blazer
Xenon
Splat Blast
STE Arctic Shock
Vaporizer
Max-D 3000

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isoaker
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Post by isoaker » Wed Jun 01, 2005 8:19 pm

Step one: open 'er up and look at the internals. You need to know how good or bad things are.
Step two: either do what Doom noted in the other post and submerge the soaker in water and pump to look for bubbles though I'd recommend trying coating things with soapy water instead. Another option is to fill the soaker with water and pump while open to try to locate the source(s) of the leaks.
Step three: depends on what you find out in step two. If the problem looks simple enough, you'll probably come up with a solution. If you have problems coming up with a solution, you'll at least have more info you can pass along to the communities so you can get better suggestions on what to do. Pics and more details are always useful.

Good luck!

:cool:
:: Leave NO one dry! :: iSoaker.com .:

BlueMage
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Post by BlueMage » Wed Jun 01, 2005 10:14 pm

actually i think it is the trigger valve. now it has the classic symptoms of open-trigger-valve-itis. i actually took a bunch of pictures and i was planning on writing a guide to opening it, as it is kinda tricky.

um, so, here is the guide.

guide to opening a CPS 1000

first pull off the front orange cap covering the nozzle. you should pry it all the way around with a srewdriver and then it will pop right off.

"To the best of my knowledge, some CPS 1000s have glued on nozzle caps that would be extremely hard to pry off." [-Doom]
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then you should remove the orange ring around the pump. this can also be done with a screwdriver, and anyone who has disassembled a soaker knows this.

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now, you need to take apart the trigger guard part. it is glued, so just runa n x-acto knife through the seam.

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now you can unscrew it. i took a picture and marked all the screw holes. don't forget the one that was underneath the orange bit at the front.

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following are a few pictures of the internals, and close-ups of some valves.

the back of the guts.
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here is the chack valve.
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this spring was part of my problem. it had come out of its seat and thus my trigger was not springing back and got stuck a lot.
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here is the trigger valve. this was my other problem.
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this fix did not really work, i just hot-glued two pen springs to the plastic disc.
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to close it back up, first replace all the screws, then push the pump ring and the front plastic part back on. that's it!




Edited By BlueMage on 1117980653
-The Wizard of Water
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BlueMage
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Post by BlueMage » Fri Jun 03, 2005 6:39 pm

update! (i would have edited but i hit the image limit for my last post) i found out why the handle was dripping water. there was a big crack in the tubing that connects to the water tank. here is a picture:
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i fixed it with JB weld:
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hopefully this soaker can be fully repaired and i can kick some butt at the upcoming school picnic with it. :bm1000:


BTW, Isoaker, if you want to put this guide in the main site feel free to do so.
-The Wizard of Water
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SSCBen
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Post by SSCBen » Sat Jun 04, 2005 7:50 am

To the best of my knowledge, some CPS 1000s have glued on nozzle caps that would be extremely hard to pry off. You may want to include that in your guide. :cool:

BlueMage
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Post by BlueMage » Sat Jun 04, 2005 9:46 am

cool, thanks! also i was looking at the nozzle underneath the cap, and it looks perfect for filling water balloons with. maybe if you removed the nozzle cap you could have bothan effective blaster and a nice portable water balloon filler.

UPDATE: my fixes worked! gluing the pen springs in there worked nicely, but i also glued the plastic disc to the metal pin so it would pull it back. also the handle no longer drips, and my epoxy fix worked! i just had to file down a couple little brackets that held the tubing in place so they were big enough to accomodate the lump of JBweld.

:bm1000: :soakon2:
-The Wizard of Water
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isoaker
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Post by isoaker » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:34 am

May I repost your guide into the Repair Section on iSoaker.com? Nice pics and detail!

Edit: just saw you already answered this question. Thanks for the permission! I hope to push it up in a more permanent place in a day or so.

:cool:
:: Leave NO one dry! :: iSoaker.com .:

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SharpObjects
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Post by SharpObjects » Sat Jun 04, 2005 8:40 pm

Mine looks nothing like that, mine has black plastic tubing, besides some other details.

~SO
CPS 1000 (Now K-modded into a CPS 10000)
CPS 4100 *in repair*
MI Flash Flood w/Aqua Pak
SC Big Trouble
Blazer
Xenon
Splat Blast
STE Arctic Shock
Vaporizer
Max-D 3000

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