WaterWar.net

Posted: **Thu Aug 19, 2004 9:20 pm**

MK1-This mark has a SMALL SEAM, but it is larger than the mk2. This is the oldest model and the pump cap IS NOT GLUED. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. They are very reliable and powerful, mine got between 14 and 17 shots per tank!

MK2-This is really the one with a SMALL SEAM at the back of the reservoir. It has a GLUED PUMP CAP. The pc is slightly SMALLER than other 2100's. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS. This mark is the HARDEST to mod, but is the MOST powerful.

MK3-The newest model, has LARGE, PRONOUNCED RECTANGULAR RIDGES on the back of the reservoir. The PUMP CAP IS NOT GLUED. The pc is slightly LARGER than the mk1. The center part of the nozzle is attached to the INTERNALS AND CASING. This mark is the EASIEST to mod, but is NOT AS POWERFUL as the mk1 or 2.

To easily identify the mark of the 2100 that you are buying in a store:

Twist the pump cap. If it is glued, then the 2100 is MK2. If it moves, then it is not glued and is MK1 or MK3. Then look at the back of the reservoir. If there are ridges, its MK3. If there is a seam, its the hard-to-find and powerful MK1.
Bottom line: If you want the most power and don't mind hacksawing the pump cap, or breaking the outer nozzle, mod a mk2. If you want an easy mod with no complications, but dont mind less power, mod an mk3. If you are lucky enough to get an mk1, go mod it immediately! Anyway, there is not much difference in power between the 3 marks, so all of them work well for modding.
<EDIT>This will be part of my 2100 marks article, so I revised some words.

Posted: **Sat Aug 21, 2004 12:40 am**

I dunno about the numbers there Dux. I was one of the first people to get a CPS 2100. I got it in February of 2002, it was probably the first shipment in, and yet I have only Mk. 2s and 3s, according to you. I think that you probably have Mks. 1 and 2 switched.

Oh, and I believe that the paint job around the black nozzle module varied slightly from gun to gun. I know some guns have a orange line around the nozzle module and some are straight black. Does this have anything to do with Mks.?

Edited By Soakologist on 1093067155

Posted: **Sat Aug 21, 2004 11:34 am**

Oh, and I believe that the paint job around the black nozzle module varied slightly from gun to gun. I know some guns have a orange line around the nozzle module and some are straight black. Does this have anything to do with Mks.?

I'm not sure. All of my 2100's have paintjobs so I can't see the original colors.:p When I first described the marks Nibordude said they were in the wrong order, resulting in the current list. I'm not sure if the list is in chronological order of the release dates, but I know it is in the order Nibor and I found them. The list has already been changed once, though, and changing it again is not worth the confusion it would bring.

Posted: **Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:24 pm**

Is there a way to figure out which order they go in ?

Edited By Peeko on 1093127194

Posted: **Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:25 pm**

What would mine be ? The pump cap is glued , It has large pronounced ridges and great power. ??? Could there be a Mark 4?

Posted: **Sat Aug 21, 2004 6:53 pm**

There defenitly (sp?) isnt a mk4. As long as the pump cap is glued, it's an Mk2.

Edited By Drewsky92 on 1093132468

Posted: **Sat Aug 21, 2004 8:25 pm**

What would mine be ? The pump cap is glued , It has large pronounced ridges and great power. Could there be a Mark 4?

There's most likely no MK4, but just to check post some more details, like what side the sticker is on. The only problem is that many of the unique features are only found while opening a 2100 or in the internals.

WaterWar.net

2100 Marks - For those who don't know