HBWW Repair/Mod Projects, Spring 2012

[HBWW]

Part of the purpose of this thread is as a personal notepad to help me keep track of everything, but anyone who cares and/or has questions can post here too. I can also, say, grab internal pics if we need some.

A listing of stuff to fix:
- Max-D 2000, Storm 750: Fix the leaks somehow, see if any epoxy at all can actually hold the pressure.
- XP 270: Attach homemade cap system to reservoir to replace broken one. (I'd use a ball valve, but they're too big, stick out too much, and create a lot of stress on the connection you'd have to make. Now fix the 270 I found at a garage sale. (Along w/ the Stream Machine) And plug the Monster XL.
- 4100: Complete pull valve failure. Maybe investigate Colossus mod or PC replacement if I'm not too lazy.
- 2700: Fix trigger piece. Should be mostly or entirely metal. (The metal wire trigger repair just won't cut it; I've tried it before. May need a combination of added wire and trigger piece.) K-mod, no more than like 20 balloons.
- 1000: Create emergency pressure release because the trigger sucks. (Gets stuck at full pressure sometimes.) And/or remove some balloons from the k-mod. Create and document intake tube mod so more of the reservoir is usable. (Then apply it to 2700, 2000, 2500, both 1200's.)
- 2100: Investigate possible leakage and possibly faulty check valve.
- Oozinator, SC 400: Fix/improve the air pump.
- Tiger Shark: Investigate trigger closing problem; may need to add rubber bands to assist and/or lube.
- CPH 1800: Replace bladder, perhaps switch to pump caps that have to be unthreaded for extra security. Now test it more.
- Place straps, get new ones if needed.
- Convert homemade piston pumper back to syringe style (no check valves)
- Use leftover check valves to make all purpose and Super Charger pump.
- Convert non-working LPD to regular APH with 4 2" PC's.
- Build stream laminator.*
- Build check valve. (Just because I can, and happen to have the parts for one.)
- Repair old Flash Flood. (Adjust main trigger closing [the de-Max-D-ing I've done] and investigate pump problems.)
*Requires completion of order from McMaster Carr; I will order screen disks, Max-D springs (for the sizes I can find), male reducer for laminator if needed, and I'd get LRT if I could afford it. I will also order small check valves.)

Yup, gotta do all that. No big deal.

Edit: Updated.

[marauder]

Metal triggers are better in theory than they are in reality. Ihave also used pull strings in the past. No bueno.

[HBWW]

Not sure how else I'd make an emergency pressure release lol, other than making the trigger itself pull more aggressively. As for triggers, a full metal piece is still more durable than a combination of metal, epoxy, and plastic, which is what I usually use. (And it lasts a few months to a year with one or two exceptions lasting 2 years or so.)

[marauder]

What? I've only had 3 triggers break on me ever. 2 CPS 4100 mks, and an XP 70. I successfully repaired the XP 70. Unfortunately I didn't know how to back in the day, so I gave my 4100s away.

Maybe I just got really lucky, but I think triggers should last forever? Triggers are forever? lol I dunno

[HBWW]

Well, I have two 4100 mk2's that were broken when they came in, so it's good that I got even one of them working. (Had both working at one point but then one broke and the other's valve just stopped working.) One of them however, I didn't quite do a great job on the trigger repair. Then I also have a CPS 2000 and 2500, as well as 2100 mk2, all of which are known to have trigger durability issues. They've been working fine for the past few years though.

Also, quite surprisingly, I have a Flash Flood and several Max-D's (two 3000's, 2000, 6000) that have lasted at least 3-5 years or so and have had no problems (other than having to lube the FF's large valve) whatsoever with the trigger assembly. Amazing I know. Might be because I don't use them all that intensively over the years. A Max-D 5000 of unknown age (cuz eBay) malfunctioned not by the spring, or the trigger piece, or of a Max-D mechanism piece breaking, but by the ball valve itself simly dying out.

I've had an odd history of all this stuff I suppose; quite out of the ordinary it seems. (Other than the super-predictable 4100 problems and my very first FF whose trigger did break from spring snapping.)