WaterWar.net

So as some of you may know, I picked up a CPS 2000 MK1 recently. It's a beautiful gun, inside and out. (Although I found a few spiders). But it has a problem, even though physically nothing looks wrong. At low pressure/ with air, it works fine. But put some water in, and it's difficult to get it to shoot. Pulling the trigger does almost nothing, even all the way back. If you pull just a little harder, you can sometimes get water to start shooting out of the nozzle but at very low velocity (like pouring onto the ground). Once this has started though, letting go of the trigger and pulling it again fires it quite nicely. Also, if you pump the gun up to maximum, sometimes it will start nozzle leaking on it's own and pulling the trigger makes it fire. I think I know what the issue is here, and I believe I will end up shortening the trigger pull to maximize valve control. I don't know, I have more testing to do. In the meanwhile, I assume someone else on here knows about this particular model's issue. Any input would be nice.

*EDIT* I have fixed it!

What I would like to do is get out my camera+tripod and do some shot videos of various things (speedloader, CPS 1500, 2000, 2500, and now my precious XD) but that's not happening for a week or so. In the meantime...

Notice how it's different from a normal CPS 2000/2500. Also, the trigger is thicker and a more durable plastic. The hard PC isn't glued. Etc, etc...

So what's actually wrong with this cannon? Nothing, well sort of. The fact is, that the pressure generated is so much, that the internals turn and twist when you try to pull the trigger. I could barely pull the pin once the gun was pressurized; and seeing how I have manually pulled the pin on a 3000, 2000 MK2, 2500, I can attest to how powerful this thing is. So what did I do?

Right: Original hole for trigger wire --- Left: New hole ----Also, I apologize for the crappy picture.
So I figured I would try this. It's not a hair trigger, but now when you pull the trigger it starts to move the firing pin back immediately instead of just moving the wire back 1/4 inch, accomplishing nothing. Now, without pulling the trigger back all of the way, it can be fired reliably. Like it was supposed to be! It's reversible, you can't see it, and unless you drill too many holes and end up with a slot, you can't screw it up. And it works!
[Insert link to video here]

Man this thing is fun. I can't wait to try it out again, VS my CPS 2000 and 2500. This thing is scary, I definitely will be mindful of what I'm shooting at.
I will note that, after a careful tap shot (that drains 1/4 of the PC), it does sometimes start leaking pressure... but I'm not using this gun for the shot time!

Hey, that's the same problem I have with my MK2. I'll definitely be doing this to it. Much better than my idea of trying to shorten the wire itself. Props!

That's such an awesome repair. My favorite solutions are the ones that are the simplest. Too many things can go wrong when you add too many moving parts to a repair or mod. Love it. Can I feature it on Hydrowar?

Also, only slightly related, but something similar seems to happen with other models as well. The pressure in my PPB was too much for the firing pin with the joint to hold, so when I pulled the trigger it was really just pulling the 2 firing pins out either side of the plastic joint. What is it about being at max pressure that makes it difficult to pull the trigger?? I'm guessing it's because when you open up the firing valve you are pulling it back against the pressure generated by the pressure chamber. My Gorgon sometimes randomly fires when it is at max pressure. Not sure if that's related.

marauder wrote:What is it about being at max pressure that makes it difficult to pull the trigger?? I'm guessing it's because when you open up the firing valve you are pulling it back against the pressure generated by the pressure chamber.

Pretty much. The pressure in the valve pushes against the back of the valve's plunger disc (not sure what else to call it ). The bigger the disc, the more force required to open the valve against a given pressure (Pressure=Force/Area). Bigger, more powerful, blasters tend to have larger pull valves and nozzles, so need a lot more force to open at full pressure (higher operating pressure and larger plunger disc for the pressure to act on).

Not sure what's causing that in the Gorgon though, higher pressure should make it harder to open (it is a pull valve isn't it?). Does it fire a short burst and then stop?

Very very neat repair/mod BTW!

When I pulled the trigger and let go it would stop. This was 3 weeks ago. I need to test it again. That happened a good 4 or 5x and I probably only pressurized it to full about 15 times, so about 1 out of every 3 times it was at full pressure it would do that. The first time I pumped it up all the way, then sat it down on the ground for a second. A few seconds later and it randomly started shooting.

Are you sure it wasn't leaking from the nozzle before it started shooting? I have found that if there is the tiniest leak in a pressurized system from a rubber seal, that once a flow is established it creates a sort of "pressure vacuum" that allows it to keep leaking instead of sealing shut (which is what you think it would do). It's counter intuitive, I know, but somehow it happens.
Also, I have found that the final pump to get a gun to "full pressure" would often cause things to fail. If the check valve doesn't activate quickly enough, it puts the stress on other parts of the gun in a sudden spike. This is what causes many cracks and ruptures in gun PC's, AND I have found this causes some pull valve guns to fire unexpectedly as well.
//That being said, I am pretty sure the gorgon uses a ball valve.

I need to preform this repair to my CPS 2500, is it now sits I get almost 5' range at best (and 20x gets all of 6")

Are you sure it's the trigger? That sounds an awful lot like my CPS 2000 with the clogged laminator.

I got a good look at the laminator it's fine, it can get 37'' on 20x when the valve does fully open.

Well there you go. Try my fix, and let us know what happens!

I fixed my 2500, While I had the same problem my trigger had snapped so I just made a wire one that was already short

When the trigger on my CPS 2500 broke I did this:

Nice. I did the same to my 2500, but with strips of plastic, not metal.