WaterWar.net

Well, i just finished modding (and i thought finished fixing) my cps 1200. I did all the mods prescribed by TheSoaker, and glued up the leaky part. I tested it, and i thought it was sealed. I closed it up an went outside to try it. It leaked again from that same spot on the check valve. I did keep pumping it though, and got a couple of shots off. Has amazing range and power, thank you TheSoaker. Anyway, i would like to know what type of glue you guys use, because i cant seem to glue my cps 2000's snapped trigger back together either. Thanks.

I always use 2-part epoxy for gluing stuff. It works very well, and you can mix in pieces of fiberglass to make it extremely strong (like, if you need to hold together a pull valve or something). It also does an amazing job at sealing against pressure; I've used it to plug the holes made after sawing out a PRV, and it has held together a pull valve (though another one didn't, so I'd recommend fiberglass for valve sealing).

good idea. So like JB weld stuff with fiberglass mixed in. how thinly shredded/ ripped does it have to be?

My dad has something like a steel resin to mix with JB weld. Didn't look very closely at it. But I might use it to fix my solar shower.

how is the stream lamination? and also the K mod might have re opened the leak.

Lamination is pretty good! it probably was the k-mod, so i will try seals method. He said it holds up well under pressure

Plain 2 part epoxy putty * when properly mixed * can hold against the power generated by a 95 balloon 21K. The fiberglass is kinda overkill, but to each his own.

So jb weld is 2 part epoxy right?

Yes it is. Steel reinforced supposedly.

Duxburian wrote:Plain 2 part epoxy putty * when properly mixed * can hold against the power generated by a 95 balloon 21K. The fiberglass is kinda overkill, but to each his own.

The stuff couldn't hold together a 30-balloon 21K valve without fiberglass (yes, it was properly mixed). It did hold together a 5-balloon 12K valve, but I had a lot more on there because the 12K valve was slightly deformed, and I needed to cover a fairly wide gap with it.

I have found that just because an epoxy says it is good up to a certain PSI doesn't mean it will work up to that PSI for me Blame it not being mixed all the way, blame it on the surface being a little dirty, or something else, but I stopped using JB Kwik because it seemed a lot more finicky than regular JB Weld or JB Water Weld which is what I currently am primarily using. I just think some epoxies may be more finicky than others. How are you mixing in this fiberglass? What are you scraping it off of?

jb kwik has been finniky for me in the past as well. Yes, how are you mixing in the fiberglass?

All I do is get these fiberglass strips (I don't know what their primary use is), and shred them into tiny pieces, which get mixed into the epoxy. The mixing tool of choice is the popsicle stick. But like Duxburian said, it is sort of overkill in most situations; so far the only time I've had use it was to hold together a pull valve which I sawed open. Every other time I just use epoxy without it.

cool. i will most likely do that. any specifications on the fiberglass?

did it work?

i got some jb water weld and applied it tonight. i`ll update you guys tommorow.

Just tested it out, it works! Thanks marauder for saying that you use water weld! Like i said, it works!

good. you have a beast in your hands now.

so am I famous on here now?

haha its quite good. On a full pc it gets about 3 secs shot time with an estimated range of 45-50 feet. i havent measured. indeed, it is a beast, and indeed, you are famous! i`ll post shot pics next time it warms up.