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I just got my dual CPS 2700s, but one of them the trigger wont work. I took the gun apart and I saw the metal rod which controls the valve pops out of the valve. My question is would it be okay to inject some epoxy using a syringe and gluing back the metal rod into the valve plate? Or does anyone know how to take apart a glued CPS 2700 valves (apparently I took out all the screws from the valve and I can't take them apart because all the glue Larami put on the thing ).

I will upload pictures shortly (about in a day).
Comments will be appreciated .

Thanks

I'm not sure what you mean, but the rubber band mod might work. http://www.sscentral.org/repairs/nozzle_leaking.html

Hi thanks for replying, but the valve on mine is closing, however it is staying closed because the dowel (the metal rod that goes into the valve is not staying in the valve). I'll take some pictures right now.

If you need to open the valve, a member on SSC just did something similar, and may be able to help you here.

I want to try to do the repair without opening up the valve (a little scared to do it). Seeing internal pictures from sscentral, I think I could inject some slow-reacting epoxy into the valve plate inside the valve using a syringe, but I may risk getting into more trouble with the valve. Has anyone had similar problems before? And what type of epoxy is very strong to bond metal to plastic because there is tremendous pressure put to the bond.

Thanks

Please do NOT try to put glue on the stab and then push it in again in order to glue parts together again... This will end up with glue in the hole, what means that the stab will be stuck every now and then. Also, there is a SMALL o-ring in the inner side mounted on the stab, as also a spring and other pieces. Glue will bring up big problems here since this small o-ring has to move gently through the stab and SEAL the chamber to the outside. GLue will "destroy " the seal and you end up with much water running out of the chamber around the stab, which would empty the gun in about 20 seconds, talking about a ful PC...

do not be lazy, open the whle thing to make sure, all is fine and put back into the old shape !

Alright I got my CPS 2700 valve open uploaded the pictures of inside. Weirdly, it differed from internals on Isoaker (no rubber ring) I'll go research which glue to use for the rod & putting this thing together

Thanks guys

My poor 2700 below

Maybe the lack or the rubber is your problem.

From your earlier picture, it looks like the trigger rod is threaded on the terminal end, is that true? If so, can you screw it onto the rear of the trigger seal (the plunger in front of the spring)? Did a section break off, did you notice anything loose in the valve when you opened it?

It looks like you did a good job of opening the valve cleanly. It may take some work, but I am confident that you will be able to successfully repair this valve.

Iam going to go get some epoxy tommorrow. Also the metal rod is not threaded but rather have ridges to hold itbin place of the plastic part. My asumption is that the molded plastic got old and not being able to take the force of spring the rod got ripped out of place making the cannon useless. I had to urgently take the 2700 apart to release pressure from pc in order to prevent streching of rubber. Ill update you guys when it is fixed. Thanks. Another thought after ripping the valve apart was i could have used syring needle to inject some epoxy but it is too late to turn back now

The proble with that is that if you missed, you would not know it, and it would destroy the valve.

Here I used a marine epoxy to glue the rod back on and it is holding good now. I'll glue the valve together tonight and I'll test for results tommorrow. Going to pick up a CPS2500 tonight found it local.

Thanks guys. My blaster in one piece again and it is working flawlessly (performance-wise & looks) after the internal operation inside the cannon. I had in this morning chance to test it out and it fired well.