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Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 12:41 am
by Newb
Hi I'm new to isoaker forums. But I have a problem. My monster XL was overcharged when using the QFD. Now every time I pump, or use the QFD, it automatically shoots. I have identified that it is the problem within the trigger valve. There is glue on the trigger valve, and I cannot separate it. There were also some screws, however I have removed them. Can any one help?
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:45 am
by Some Guy
I don't think that you should saw anything off, or even try to open the trigger valve. The problem you have sounds like the trigger spring just got a bit weak (common problem). If you push the pin in a bit, close it up and pump, does it still shoot out? If not then you probably just need to do a spring or rubber band mod. Rubber band has you just wrap rubberbands aroung the pin to push it back in, or you can hot glue a spring to the back orf the pin and hot glue the other side of the spring to someting else, so that it will push the pin bck in.
Edited By Some Guy on 1131810334
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 2:20 pm
by Newb
I have comfirmed that it is not this problem. I have done the fix for this, and apparently it is not the problem. People from sscentral forurms cannot help me there, so I hope isoaker can.
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 2:44 pm
by isoaker
First, I'm assuming you're talking about it shooting through the nozzles and not out of the QFD.
Opening the nozzle valve is something that few have done successfully, thus we need to be sure that is the only course of action to take.
Pictures would help if you can take some. If you do not have a place to host the images, email them to me and I'll get them posted up onto the board.
Based on your last reply, you've tried manually closing the nozzle valve and found it didn't help? Does the trigger assembly still pull on the nozzle valve? If the rod and valve bar and spring all appear intact and functioning, what you may have done is somehow managed to snap the inner connection. I do not believe the Monster XL uses a ball-valve, rather it likely uses one of the funny piston-plunger type valves I've seen on other older model CPS-based blasters. I'll admit, though, I never managed to open up my Monster XL that far since I never had the need to.
If you can take pictures, it'd likely help. If not, we'll try going through various possible scenarios and hopefully one may solve your problem without you needing to open up the nozzle valve. I just fear that you'll do even more damage if you open up the nozzle valve if it turns out things could be fixed from the surface.
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 7:18 pm
by Newb
Hummm I have quite a few images, however I dont know how to post them, so I guess I'll have to email you.
Yes I beleve that it snaped, but I cannot be sure at the moment. All I know is that the rod and valve bar and spring all appear intact and functioning. Thanks
Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 8:52 pm
by Crashdummy
Newb wrote:Hummm I have quite a few images, however I dont know how to post them, so I guess I'll have to email you.
Yes I beleve that it snaped, but I cannot be sure at the moment. All I know is that the rod and valve bar and spring all appear intact and functioning. Thanks
If something snapped, it would have been the connection there.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 2:29 pm
by Newb
I have also confirmed that the trigger valve was sealed by plumbers adhesive. This substance melts the two plastics together, thus forming one solid piece of plastic. It will be exprely hard to get off, if removeable.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 2:47 pm
by isoaker
Based on the description thusfar, if all the external movable parts appear intact, in place, and working, it sounds more like a seal on the inside of the trigger valve has been damaged or is out of place. Due to how these valves are assembled and glued together, it is highly unlikely you'd be able to open it without making it basically impossible to close again without having another leak somewhere else.
You may consider bringing the valve assembly to a hardware store and see if perhaps some guys there can offer suggestions on what might be a good, workable substitute valve. If you do manage to force your way into the valve, you'd likely be able to easily determine the culprit behind the leak. However, unless the pieces fit very well back together, you'd still have a disfunctional Monster XL on your hands.
Pictures may help, though, so if you can email some, I'll repost them into this thread.
Posted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:14 pm
by Newb
Hum alright but whats your email adress??
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:51 am
by SSCBen
Newb, I really don't like how you are so incapable of finding information yourself. You can email iSoaker from this message board and finding his email address is easy on the website. I'll make it even easier for you though by posting it. 
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 11:09 pm
by Newb
Thanks this helps a lot haha.
Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:41 am
by Newb
I see what you guys are trying to get at, however I have tried that on the first day I opened it. Lol. I understand that you all are just trying to fix it without doing internal damage. I appreciate your sincerity, however it must be opened. But I will also try your method once again. If I do not repost, then consider this as it was before.
Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:51 pm
by Some Guy
The pin looks kind of wierd to me. When you say that you were pushing it in, did you mean the orange thing, or the metal part? The pring in it looks really weak, and the spring/rubberband repair might not have worked because of the displaced orange part, where the spring or rubberband tends to press on. Also if I remember right then the purple part is usually pressed against the thin blue part farther down the rod.
Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:37 pm
by Newb
I have the rubber band method i tried was the correct way of doing it. I pressed the metal rod all the way back, untill it could not go any further. In addition, the metal rod was covered with the rubberband, to form a great strong bond between both the rod, and the rubber band. It pulled the metal rod fully back, just as if I did it maunally, by hand.
Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:47 pm
by isoaker
When you say "back", do you mean towards or away from the nozzles?
Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 6:31 pm
by Newb
I mean towards the nozel
Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 7:04 pm
by isoaker
It really sounds like the internal seal got damaged, loosened, or misplaced somewhere along the way. Not much else that can be suggested now apart from attempting to open it without doing to much damage to the housing, finding the problem, replacing whatever part is broken, then trying to reseal the whole enchilada back up again such that it will withstand the pressure from the PC chambers.
This is definitely where my experience ends and it's purely speculation now. Feel free to share findings and we'll try to help in anyway we can, but when it comes to repairs, I do not recall anyone having ever opened up a CPS nozzle valve and being able to successfully repair it.
Good luck!
Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 7:47 pm
by m15399
In this topic, daanj says "So I just cracked open the trigger valve casing". You might want to try that
Otherwise, sawing it open might be the only way, but that's a last resort so wait for more people to respond first.
Edited By m15399 on 1132188507
Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 5:36 pm
by LIGHT ANNIHILATOR
Well I heard the idea of replacing it with a ball valve and I think that's a pretty good idea. If you mess around with that wire you could make some sort of new trigger with the ball valve in case this plan fails, however I am not in any way a expert on this, just stating my opinion.
Edited By LIGHT ANNIHILATOR on 1132267044
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